Every few months, some major website
writes a press release disguised as an article about a lingerie
start-up “disrupting” the intimate apparel industry. Whether the brand
claims to revolutionize manufacturing, sizes or style,
there’s always a statement about turning the lingerie industry on its
head, accompanied by a boast about how the world of lingerie will never
be the same.
But overall, the world of lingerie is the same. Most start-ups fix already solvable problems, brag about “innovations” already in existence, and claim to be game-changers when they’re, quite simply, playing the same game everyone else is.
So if these brands haven’t actually changed anything,
why do they receive so much praise? Why do we care about them? Why do
people think they have such a big influence on the lingerie industry?
And why don’t we write about (and give money to) the brands that are actually changing things?
Right now, America loves “disruption”
and “innovation” and “reinvention.” And people especially love the idea of
“disruption” in their lingerie drawers. Why? Because so many of us find
our lingerie to be uncomfortable, expensive, and not at all fun to shop
for. And it doesn’t help that most people lack knowledge about lingerie:
how it’s made, how it fits, and where to get it.
In this vacuum of knowledge, lingerie start-ups emerge. Often fronted by people with no experience
in the fashion industry (much less intimates), but years of experience
in tech or finance, they want to be the next big “disruptor,” the next
Victoria’s Secret, the next Steve Jobs.
Venture capitalists, who know a lot
of money can be made by “disrupting” old-fashioned industries, throw
millions of dollars at these companies, charmed by their language and
claims of breaking new ground.
As an aside, I think there’s a lot to
be said about an outsider coming in to “disrupt” an industry that might
be stuck in its ways. However, I truly believe you can’t reinvent the wheel if you don’t know how the wheel works in the first place.
These start-ups aim to fix
the lingerie industry, but they don’t understand what they’re trying to
fix. Their tech bro chatter attracts big money and big publicity from
our Silicon Valley and tech-obsessed society, but the consumer is hardly
benefiting all these new options.
This glorification of start-up
culture, combined with a general ignorance about bras and lingerie and
fashion in general, means lines that actually are changing things for the better are often overlooked by major sources of funding and big publications.
This explains so many if my issues with tech bros (because these are almost always guys) coming into our industry and ignoring everything we are already doing to address issues. Zero Waste? Let’s throw a whole bunch of money at some MBAs to 3D print uncomfortable and non-functional dresses (because they don’t realize we already have whole-garment knitting). Don’t even get me started on the gender dynamics of people from a male-majority field coming into a female-majority field and thinking they can solve all of our problems without learning anything about the textiles and apparel field. “Because a woman can do it, it’s not that hard, right?” UGH